Tasty
Thursday, January 31st, 2008
Every once in a while, one flavor (pun intended) or another of this little food nonsense, rears its ugly head in my direction. It did so recently on the Skepticality forums so I thought I would shed some light here for all interested.
Full disclosure: I am a professional chef, and I have lived and worked in Hong Kong for some 14 years now. And, although I don’t use refined MSG in my cooking it is certainly in many of the ingredients I cook with (same as you). In fact that intense flavor is exactly what I was looking to create in my current menu items OMG Bolognese and 24-hour prime rib steak. And any chef worth their salt (pun intended) is trying to create abundant quantities of it when they make a rich stock or consomme.
But what is it anyway? MSG is the salt form of glutamic acid, which is an amino acid and the flavor compound responsible for the meaty or savory flavor known as Umami. Glutamates occur naturally in proteins and most aged foods including such things as meats, poultry, fish, cheese, tomatoes, legumes, mushrooms, seaweed, tofu, and fermented sauces (like soy, Worcestershire, Balsamic, and steak sauce).
Interestingly Roquefort or Parmesan cheeses actually have significantly more (10% to 40% more) free glutamate than any soy sauce. Those fermented yeast spreads (like Vegemite) have nearly twice the MSG, not added, but occurring naturally during the fermentation process.
MSG was discovered and identified in 1866 by German scientist Karl Heinrich Leopold Ritthausen. In 1907 a Japanese researcher Kikunae Ikeda of the Tokyo Imperial University identified brown crystals left behind after the evaporation of seaweed broth (then commonly used as a food flavoring agent) as glutamic acid. These crystals, when tasted, reproduced the flavor in many foods, most especially in seaweed. Professor Ikeda termed this flavor Umami, a Japanese word meaning "savory" or "deliciousness." Since its discovery the science and the culinary field alike have accepted Umami as a fifth distinct basic taste.
Due to its relative newness and possibly also it’s foreign source (Japan), MSG has been intensely studied. After thorough investigation MSG is listed among the safest food additives by the EU, WHO and USFDA. None of the claims of its ill effects have ever been anything more than anecdote that fails at the slightest scientific inquiry.
The most recent claim regarding the evils of MSG is that it has been found to cause obesity in rats. I did find a few (1, 2) studies using MSG to instigate overeating & obesity in rats, but none studying the mechanism, rather just noting the use. There was a study on MSG use in humans that did not show any correlation between MSG use and obesity.
A different study in 2006 did show a strong correlation between salt (sodium chloride) consumption and obesity in humans. However the researchers of that study surmised that the higher salt content of the diets caused more thirst and in turn more drinking of higher calorie beverages. So in an excellent example of why correlation does not equal causation, it was not the salt that caused obesity, but calories from the drinks used to quench the thirst caused by the salt.
At any rate, it seems clear that to date, there is no evidence that normal consumption of MSG has any notable ill effect on health. After all the Japanese, mass consumers of MSG in all forms, have one of the highest life expectancies and lowest obesity rates on the planet.





